Modern Cultural versus Borders: The new generation of modern Ukrainian literature in Poland

In May (14-20), 2007, in time of the Warsaw book fair (17-20) and after XIV Polish European Meetings (5-13) in 5 cities of Poland we carried out the series of events. Aims of the project there are: intercultural dialog between new cultural generation of Ukraine and Polish developed the tolerance and good-neighbourliness within the rich diversity which forms Europe's identity.
These events included the presentation of the new generation of modern Ukrainian literature for cultural practitioners, translators and journalists, discussions about new tendencies in Polish and Ukrainian literature, meetings with Polish publishers etc. Promo materials in the Polish language for all presentations are were developed too.

At support by STEP beyond’ Mobility Fund, European Cultural Foundation
Travel dates: 8th May 2007 – 19th May 2007


Kseniya Sladkevych and Petro Matskevych, the coordinators of the Project:
Except for important results from meetings and discussions we «have brought» from this trip interesting impressions about a kaleidoscope of the Polish variety – we for 10 days have visited five very different cities of Poland. Below read about our impressions.

Notes about trip Ukraine – Poland – Ukraine (The photo to look HERE)

Thanks the route, we have seen absolutely different five cities not similar against each other.
We had a sensation, that we have visited to five different countries, with different climates (in Wroclaw we have frozen, in Gdansk have got wet, in Krakow and Warsaw «have fried»), similar language, surprisingly tasty soup «zhurek» at all restaurants and pubs irrespective of type of kitchen, and the general network book mega stores «Empik».

Lublin. Small, slightly sleepy, but very comfortable city. It is more similar to old cities of the Western Ukraine, than Poland. From stories of local experts on city there was an impression, that all the most interesting places in old town are somehow connected with a Gate. And it proves to be true. We have entered into old town through the Krakow Gate, and we lived directly in the Grodzka gate. Here is the theatre «The theatre NN – Grodzka gate».

The affinity of Lublin to Ukraine and tradition of local university have led to that what many modern Ukrainian writers and actors visit to Lublin. But, unfortunately, these visits were unsystematic, chaotic and had more private character. As result – local population practically doesn’t know anything about modern Ukrainian culture.

One of features of old Lublin is the close neighbourhood of well restored, «licked» houses and houses which evidently show a destructive course of time.

Gdansk. At rather small amount of inhabitants, Gdansk has amazed us in the sizes: the most convenient municipal transportation – usual train which goes through all «triune cities» (Gdansk, Sopot, Gdynia) each 10 minutes. When we hastened to the meeting, we have gone by taxi. We went «not for long» – only 40 minutes. But we very much were surprised, when our way has borrowed with back «city» train only 8 minutes... Perhaps, therefore some student's clubs of Gdansk are... in Gdynia or Sopot. And to choose a place of residing at visiting Gdansk, Gdynia or Sopot is better near any «internal» railway station.

Despite of a constant rain, we have received some very bright impressions:

• Visiting of the Centre for Contemporary Art «Lazńia». The external impression is the old very «shabby» building. After more detailed survey, apparently, that is former church as from the back party of a building there is the bureau of funeral services (in Gdansk they came across to us very often...). But when you get inside it appear in a super-modernist style which is ideally adapted for carrying out cultural events, the art-performers, demonstration of films, etc. We were very hospitably met by the mistress of the centre, Madam Jadwiga Charzyńska. Though we with it were not familiar before. It has acquainted us with activity of the Center and we had ideas of carrying out of the joint projects.
• 
  Formidability of the Old town has simply struck us. Such huge market of old town, such huge churches and such scope in old town to us never before to see it was necessary. We have felt in an old German seaport. The old town is not Gdansk, it is Danzig... One more difference of Gdansk from other Polish cities – all old buildings in a good condition (anyway – externally). Not surprisingly, what exactly in Gdansk is the biggest brick church of Poland (Saint Maria's church) – it amazes with the sizes, but long is inside of it not so comfortably. And there and then a number is absolutely amazing small Saint Nikolay's church in which we, people not so religious, have felt any improbable «enlightenment» – we would not like to leave this cathedral. Even the idea what here to photograph to us has seemed inappropriate.

Of conversations with local residents, writers and art workers we had the impression that the modern culture in Gdansk lives in separate, almost not informed among themselves and with press «centres». At first sight its displays it is not visible almost.

Wroclaw. This improbable connection of olden time, the modernist style, reconstruction and advertising boards. The old town very «doll» similar to «Russian gingerbread». It is surprising, yet not so a long time ago Wroclaw was the German city of Breslau

From the point of view of Ukrainians, Wroclaw is especial city. In fact, after the second world war many Poles from Lvov have arrived in Wroclaw. They have taken away with themselves the monument to the known Polish writer Earl Alexander Fredro (now it is in the market of old city in Wroclaw) and huge library Ossolinskikh (so-called Ossolenium). We for the first time have directly collided with the phenomenon about which heard from much Ukrainians, Poles and even Frenchmen: so-called, «kresomania» (from the word «kresy» – suburbs). This display of old stereotypes by one from which is: «Lviv should belong to Poland». This stereotype till now causes heated arguments between Poles and украинцами which sometimes come to an end with bloody disassemblies. Here, in Wroclaw, even this stereotype is shown in a little bit «doll» kind. So in the centre of old town between schoolboys of the elementary school (they was dressed in bright «doll» clothes) competition on the best execution of an old Polish song-chanson «Only in Lvov» has been arranged, and in the central library the exhibition is arranged: «People and houses «east Kresow»...

In Wroclaw, except for people, there live many surprising creations. It are concrete «people» who leave under the ground before a pedestrian crossing and leave from under the ground behind it; the bronze nice little men (gnomes) who have hidden behind stone spheres, small cellars, benches.

Krakow. Krakow is a city which has kept advantage of the royal capital. This city is the good place for carrying out of cultural actions, discussions and provocations. In difference from Gdansk, display of modern culture here – everywhere.

Krakow always was young city – in any point of city always it is possible to meet groups of students (in Krakow there is one of the oldest, most authoritative and one of the greatest in Poland of universities – Jagiellonian University). But now the old city is more filled by tourists, basically from the countries of the Western Europe. Two years ago it looked organically. In Krakow there is what to look and for the choosiest. But now they are too much. It is a pity, if this city will turn to tourist Mecca – Krakow can lose the atmosphere... The behaviour of tourists from the Western Europe already causes concern and anxiety in local residents. Krakow's inhabitants told to us about how «German grandmothers, having gorged on cheapest (than in all Western Europe) meal and alcohol belch directly near churches», and it especially offends Poles, the majority of them are very religious.

Krakow was and has remained cultural capital of Poland. As Poles speak, if you want, that your actions in field of culture would be recognized, they should be begun in Krakow.

Warsaw. It was remembered: abundance of book coffee houses with exotic names (for example, «the Sentimental barbarian»), the biggest in Poland the bookshop («The Traffic Club»), half empty the state stand of the guest of honour of Warsaw International Book Fair – Ukraine, street theatres and performances of beginners rockers direct near the presidential residence...

Some general impressions
In all cities there are big repairs of roads that strongly complicate movement on city. The Polish drivers joke: «It is dug in the ground of money from Unia (t.i. EU) which have fallen on ours head».

As we could lead a lot of time in trains (trip from city to city – from 4 till 8 o'clock), we communicated with much fellow travellers. Poles are very sociable. They, as well as Ukrainians, are very sceptically adjusted to actions of the government.

As a whole we are satisfied by a trip. Despite of weariness from numerous crossings (not always very convenient), we have received many positive emotions and bright impressions. Poland very beautiful country and we did not feel itself here abroad. Possibly it was promoted by our good knowledge of the Polish language and the general history of Poland and Ukraine which not always creates negative stereotypes...